dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 14, 2020 10:38:52 GMT -5
I'll take pictures. I'm "lucky" enough to have both versions of the imports so can do a compare. Would be nice to have a 52 inch american one to complete the set but I assume they are just larger versions of my 36". Once I remove the blades I can get more honed in listening with aluminum bat to the ear and try to pinpoint the source.
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 14, 2020 11:17:07 GMT -5
I removed the switch plate cover, there is a bit more tangle going on in there than the 36 inch ones. I tried to move the cup. The old one screws off clockwise. This one moved a bit in both directions but stops. Nothing going on in there otherwise. I'd have to cut a lot of wires to pull down the cup and drain the oil. I'll pull the blades and try to remove the housing cover to see what's going on. sounds something like a small stone or BB in a tin can which makes me kind of rule out anything in the oil cup. I noted the noise before I installed the blades. I should have stopped there but hoped it would go away after installing the blades and the oil moving around. My bad, I thought you were comparing the switch housing wiring of this new original to your sunroom original lol But what's cool is it seems like it's just a little nugget of something scraping around in the housing. I know this one's a bit strange but can I request a picture of the fan motor when you take the faceplate off? Here you go. I don't want to get too deep but there are 4 screws holding on the spinning part. I assume I can drop that at least to the bottom of the oil cup. It appears to be coming from there but it's not clear what those 4 screws are attached to. Wish there was a schematic available somewhere.
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 14, 2020 12:32:59 GMT -5
Good news. Once the blades were off I was able to get in closer. I found the noise on one side and after a lot of peering at different angles found the 210X20 tag had fallen into the housing and was rubbing the spinner.
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Post by Noah C on Apr 14, 2020 12:39:26 GMT -5
My bad, I thought you were comparing the switch housing wiring of this new original to your sunroom original lol But what's cool is it seems like it's just a little nugget of something scraping around in the housing. I know this one's a bit strange but can I request a picture of the fan motor when you take the faceplate off? Here you go. I don't want to get too deep but there are 4 screws holding on the spinning part. I assume I can drop that at least to the bottom of the oil cup. It appears to be coming from there but it's not clear what those 4 screws are attached to. Wish there was a schematic available somewhere. Thanks a lot for the picture, Dan. I don't have much experience with post-2002 Originals with these skeletal motors, but the picture is helping me help you. You might want to remove that black plastic housing that surrounds the motor. That looks to be where Hunter put their start capacitor and motor winding connections; you should be able to shake out any little nuggets in it. Before and after you do that, though, test the fan motor unloaded for excessive noise. Can I also ask you for a shot of the motor from the top of the fan (I should be able to see a bit of it through the vents)? I don't know if the bottom part of the rotor (spinning part) is gonna drop down easily when unscrewed especially if it's screwed into a top casing (I believe there is one). You may wanna hold off on this unless you've got wire nuts since you'd have to take off the switch housing, and clip and splice wires to disassemble/reassemble the fan.
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Post by Noah C on Apr 14, 2020 12:52:24 GMT -5
Good news. Once the blades were off I was able to get in closer. I found the noise on one side and after a lot of peering at different angles found the 210X20 tag had fallen into the housing and was rubbing the spinner. Ah, figures. Those seem to peel off pretty often on these post-2015 Originals. Yeah, you're either gonna have to grab a small object (like tweezers or something) and try and grab it from out of one of the vents on top of the fan, or remove it once you've taken that housing off. Don't worry about my last post, I don't need a fan top picture after all
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 14, 2020 12:59:52 GMT -5
Thanks Noah, It's all resolved. I pulled it with tweezers. Runs perfect and quiet just scuffed up a bunch of paint on the blade screws for all this. I'll try to get an above picture but the picture emails I'm sending to myself aren't getting here today. I'll have to use it and think about the living room. It might be a little too different than what I have. If you recall, the issue in my living room is I have no electricity in the center like most rooms. There is a bay window and an opening to the family room so no easy way to shoot a line up there at all. I have LED cans in the area but I'd be stuck using switched power from those lights if I jumped from them
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Post by Noah C on Apr 14, 2020 14:19:21 GMT -5
Thanks Noah, It's all resolved. I pulled it with tweezers. Runs perfect and quiet just scuffed up a bunch of paint on the blade screws for all this. I'll try to get an above picture but the picture emails I'm sending to myself aren't getting here today. I'll have to use it and think about the living room. It might be a little too different than what I have. If you recall, the issue in my living room is I have no electricity in the center like most rooms. There is a bay window and an opening to the family room so no easy way to shoot a line up there at all. I have LED cans in the area but I'd be stuck using switched power from those lights if I jumped from them No problem. Blade screws are bound to get...wait for it....screwed up. Don't worry about the top picture; I only was asking for one earlier because I was replying to your post before you told me that the motor sticker got stuck in the fan. That sure is a really nice Original though. About the living room: yeah, that sucks. On that front don't go and tear your living room apart unless you really want to Now, if you had a solid wall with an outlet box on or nearby that wall and you really wanted to have a ceiling fan in the living room, you would be able to run romex up to the center of the ceiling and put a fan there, but like you said, your living room is basically open concept w/o electricity. My living room is similar, and I'm probably not gonna bother putting a fan in it.
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 14, 2020 14:35:11 GMT -5
Thanks Noah, It's all resolved. I pulled it with tweezers. Runs perfect and quiet just scuffed up a bunch of paint on the blade screws for all this. I'll try to get an above picture but the picture emails I'm sending to myself aren't getting here today. I'll have to use it and think about the living room. It might be a little too different than what I have. If you recall, the issue in my living room is I have no electricity in the center like most rooms. There is a bay window and an opening to the family room so no easy way to shoot a line up there at all. I have LED cans in the area but I'd be stuck using switched power from those lights if I jumped from them No problem. Blade screws are bound to get...wait for it....screwed up. Don't worry about the top picture; I only was asking for one earlier because I was replying to your post before you told me that the motor sticker got stuck in the fan. That sure is a really nice Original though. About the living room: yeah, that sucks. On that front don't go and tear your living room apart unless you really want to Now, if you had a solid wall with an outlet box on or nearby that wall and you really wanted to have a ceiling fan in the living room, you would be able to run romex up to the center of the ceiling and put a fan there, but like you said, your living room is basically open concept w/o electricity. My living room is similar, and I'm probably not gonna bother putting a fan in it. Looking back from the edge of the sunroom (where the white original is) across the familyroom (where you see the paramount) into the living room. That's a large 18X12 room - as you can see to get to the middle of the room would be a problem because the joists run towards the bay window. My only option is to run it under the crown or to put it on one end of the room where I can get to a plug. I think the LED cans were run under the crown. I should have thought about it then.
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Post by Noah C on Apr 14, 2020 15:53:40 GMT -5
No problem. Blade screws are bound to get...wait for it....screwed up. Don't worry about the top picture; I only was asking for one earlier because I was replying to your post before you told me that the motor sticker got stuck in the fan. That sure is a really nice Original though. About the living room: yeah, that sucks. On that front don't go and tear your living room apart unless you really want to Now, if you had a solid wall with an outlet box on or nearby that wall and you really wanted to have a ceiling fan in the living room, you would be able to run romex up to the center of the ceiling and put a fan there, but like you said, your living room is basically open concept w/o electricity. My living room is similar, and I'm probably not gonna bother putting a fan in it. Looking back from the edge of the sunroom (where the white original is) across the familyroom (where you see the paramount) into the living room. That's a large 18X12 room - as you can see to get to the middle of the room would be a problem because the joists run towards the bay window. My only option is to run it under the crown or to put it on one end of the room where I can get to a plug. I think the LED cans were run under the crown. I should have thought about it then. Hm, yeah that's a tough situation. From the perspective of the photo it's hard to tell but the can light looks like it's closer to the bag window than the wall the living and family rooms share. If you were to wire the fan using romex, you'd have to thump your ceiling to try to find a joist you can make an outlet box for a fan on. You can't really hide romex under crown molding, and it would be unrefined to use a swag kit or clipped extension cord in a living room. Looks nice without a fan, but that would be an epic Original install if the space could accommodate that
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 14, 2020 17:18:05 GMT -5
I can't jump off the can lights because the fan would only work if the cans are on. I mean of course that could be done but not really a good solution because the fan is mostly on during the day. there are 6 cans in the room but the other center one is hidden by the doorway. You are seeing the center of the back row there. The cans were put in 5 years ago and I know that the romex is under the crown. I know that isn't code but it works just fine but I didn't do it. It routes up into the ceiling under the crown then back down into the wall to the switch. I'm just not up for removing and refinishing the crown to run a new line from a switch. I would like a fan in that room because I use it as an office (a lot esp lately). Given that there are two paramounts down there, it might be best to stay with that. Not sure about the black fan there but it would match the couch if nothing else.
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 16, 2020 19:57:40 GMT -5
I think Parkman posted this same fan/light in his thread. I love to find an equivalent globe for my other panama 6699. I know you posted this one from rejuvenation but it is expensive. I'm trying to find another option but my searches aren't finding anything but white glass. static.hansenwholesale.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/c/a/ca-55082-3_1.jpg image.lampsplus.com/is/image/cropped/74K34cropped.fpx?qlt=65&wid=710&hei=710&op_sharpen=1&fmt=jpeg www.rejuvenation.com/catalog/products/10-classic-clear-schoolhouse-shade-4-fitter
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 19, 2020 10:17:50 GMT -5
Regardless, nice fans and nice installs, especially the 36" originals. I hope this 52" original hasn't quietly bit the dust with a bigger issue; that's not likely anyway. You've got yourself a mini-collection going, and it's a nice one at that! That original would make a great living room fan by the way...to troubleshoot it first check if something's rattling in the switch housing part then check the oil reservoir or near/in the bottom bearing. You could also remove (and save) the oil from the fan, take it down, and try shaking the fan motor to see if there's something in the motor housing/motor. Noah, on the subject of Originals (I'll reply just because you may know, or anybody else might)............ On the USA 52 inch original varieties, I know there is an early shaded pole type that draws 2.5 amps that was made to the early/mid eighties (similar in design to my 36 inch types which draw 1.2 amps). Then they switched to a permanent split capacitor type motor until moving overseas in 2002. I thought the later USA motors drew 2.0 amps. I've seen many with that label. Recently I came across an ebay listing from a 1989 52 inch that has a 1.1 amp motor. I confirm that motor label in the 25574 model from 1985 in the link below. What is the variant and is it on the same performance level as the 2.5/2.0 motors? www.vintageceilingfans.com/hunteroriginalceilingfancat.no.25574-001.html
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Post by Noah C on Apr 19, 2020 11:17:26 GMT -5
Regardless, nice fans and nice installs, especially the 36" originals. I hope this 52" original hasn't quietly bit the dust with a bigger issue; that's not likely anyway. You've got yourself a mini-collection going, and it's a nice one at that! That original would make a great living room fan by the way...to troubleshoot it first check if something's rattling in the switch housing part then check the oil reservoir or near/in the bottom bearing. You could also remove (and save) the oil from the fan, take it down, and try shaking the fan motor to see if there's something in the motor housing/motor. Noah, on the subject of Originals (I'll reply just because you may know, or anybody else might)............ On the USA 52 inch original varieties, I know there is an early shaded pole type that draws 2.5 amps that was made to the early/mid eighties (similar in design to my 36 inch types which draw 1.2 amps). Then they switched to a permanent split capacitor type motor until moving overseas in 2002. I thought the later USA motors drew 2.0 amps. I've seen many with that label. Recently I came across an ebay listing from a 1989 52 inch that has a 1.1 amp motor. I confirm that motor label in the 25574 model from 1985 in the link below. What is the variant and is it on the same performance level as the 2.5/2.0 motors? www.vintageceilingfans.com/hunteroriginalceilingfancat.no.25574-001.htmlTo answer your question, Dan, I'm gonna go through some basic history of Originals. The first post-R52 era Originals were shaded pole R&M (Robbins & Myers) models with horseshoe blade brackets and with a 2.5 amp 2-speed non-reversible motor. Hunter then transitioned to a permanent split capacitor 1.1amp (3spd. reversible) motor and the cat-eye blade brackets (this is the model you asked me about); this was from the early '80s until '92, when Originals became 4/5 blade instead of 4 blade only. During the transitional period there were some 5 blade only originals manufactured. Hunter switched to a 2 amp motor with a similar design to the 1.1amp, but more powerful. These lasted until '02. There are also 2 variants of the Taiwanese made skeletal motor Originals. The first are the ones made from 2002-2015; they use a smaller main bearing shaft than the 4" one used in the '90s 2 amp Originals, and they were the weakest of the Originals. The current variants are the ones made from 2015 and running; they returned to the 4" main bearing shaft along with some other tweaks to make the fan more similar to the USA models. These are more powerful than the earlier Taiwanese Originals but slightly less powerful than the 2 amp ones. As powerful or slightly more powerful than the 1.1amp ones. Thus, the performance of the 1985 Original you linked is about the same as the current skeletal original (the new black one you just bought).
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dano
Junior Member
Posts: 140
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Post by dano on Apr 19, 2020 19:58:46 GMT -5
To answer your question, Dan, I'm gonna go through some basic history of Originals. The first post-R52 era Originals were shaded pole R&M (Robbins & Myers) models with horseshoe blade brackets and with a 2.5 amp 2-speed non-reversible motor. Hunter then transitioned to a permanent split capacitor 1.1amp (3spd. reversible) motor and the cat-eye blade brackets (this is the model you asked me about); this was from the early '80s until '92, when Originals became 4/5 blade instead of 4 blade only. During the transitional period there were some 5 blade only originals manufactured. Hunter switched to a 2 amp motor with a similar design to the 1.1amp, but more powerful. These lasted until '02. There are also 2 variants of the Taiwanese made skeletal motor Originals. The first are the ones made from 2002-2015; they use a smaller main bearing shaft than the 4" one used in the '90s 2 amp Originals, and they were the weakest of the Originals. The current variants are the ones made from 2015 and running; they returned to the 4" main bearing shaft along with some other tweaks to make the fan more similar to the USA models. These are more powerful than the earlier Taiwanese Originals but slightly less powerful than the 2 amp ones. As powerful or slightly more powerful than the 1.1amp ones. Thus, the performance of the 1985 Original you linked is about the same as the current skeletal original (the new black one you just bought). Thanks, for the info, I didn't until seeing this know there was a transition 1.1 amp model. If I find a USA 52 I'll pass over the 1.1 amp model. I'd like to compare the output to the 2 late models I have vs. the 2.0 version. I don't notice any power difference between the later/earlier imports. However, the new ones (post 2015)have much heavier blades and brackets than the early imports. When I bought my first one, there was some mis-matched brackets and blades going on. One type was about an ounce and half heavier with the same part number. I ordered new brackets from the latest model white orginal, to have a complete set and they were the much heavier ones. The teak one I just got has the same brackets with much wider castings. Also, the teak one has blades that are about 60 grams heavier each Could be the blades are heavier because they are outdoor rated types.
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Post by Noah C on Apr 19, 2020 21:09:34 GMT -5
To answer your question, Dan, I'm gonna go through some basic history of Originals. The first post-R52 era Originals were shaded pole R&M (Robbins & Myers) models with horseshoe blade brackets and with a 2.5 amp 2-speed non-reversible motor. Hunter then transitioned to a permanent split capacitor 1.1amp (3spd. reversible) motor and the cat-eye blade brackets (this is the model you asked me about); this was from the early '80s until '92, when Originals became 4/5 blade instead of 4 blade only. During the transitional period there were some 5 blade only originals manufactured. Hunter switched to a 2 amp motor with a similar design to the 1.1amp, but more powerful. These lasted until '02. There are also 2 variants of the Taiwanese made skeletal motor Originals. The first are the ones made from 2002-2015; they use a smaller main bearing shaft than the 4" one used in the '90s 2 amp Originals, and they were the weakest of the Originals. The current variants are the ones made from 2015 and running; they returned to the 4" main bearing shaft along with some other tweaks to make the fan more similar to the USA models. These are more powerful than the earlier Taiwanese Originals but slightly less powerful than the 2 amp ones. As powerful or slightly more powerful than the 1.1amp ones. Thus, the performance of the 1985 Original you linked is about the same as the current skeletal original (the new black one you just bought). Thanks, for the info, I didn't until seeing this know there was a transition 1.1 amp model. If I find a USA 52 I'll pass over the 1.1 amp model. I'd like to compare the output to the 2 late models I have vs. the 2.0 version. I don't notice any power difference between the later/earlier imports. However, the new ones (post 2015)have much heavier blades and brackets than the early imports. When I bought my first one, there was some mis-matched brackets and blades going on. One type was about an ounce and half heavier with the same part number. I ordered new brackets from the latest model white orginal, to have a complete set and they were the much heavier ones. The teak one I just got has the same brackets with much wider castings. Also, the teak one has blades that are about 60 grams heavier each Could be the blades are heavier because they are outdoor rated types. Like I said, the 2 amp originals are more powerful than your imported ones. Especially more powerful than the white one you have. The current originals have the best build quality and castings of any original made after the late '70s; the new originals are also outdoor damp-rated so they beefed up the blade brackets a bit. The Teak blade original you just bought has heavier blades than normal Originals (which are regular plywood blades with wood veneers on each side; the current generation of originals has PVC veneers instead of wood in order to make the blades weather resistant) because under the PVC veneer they're solid teak, which is a lot heavier than plywood. The difference in weight between normal Original blades and the regular PVC veneer ones is very small.
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