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Post by strackerjack on Jul 24, 2005 8:00:55 GMT -5
The plastic/metal collar on the pull switch broke so I thought I'd replace it
new switch is a Cooper 2 circuit 3 speed canopy switch w/same ratings as fan
House wiring: white comes down out of box thru downrod and is common to light and fan, black wire goes to bundle of other wires which are tied to the coil wires of the fan motor.
this bundle then drops down the downrod to my switch wiring 2 of the wires from the bundle (yellow and grey) supply the light's black wire others (red and brown) go to a black box (capacitor?) which supplied the old 4 wire switch with everything but the white (common with the light)
the new switch has only 3 wires (not 4 like the old) red brown and black for 1, 2, and L in that order.
When I try to wire it up all I get is one speed Medium
2 questions - is there a way to properly wire this new switch in?
is there anyplace I can get the original switch for this fan if it's the wrong one?
thanks
jack
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Post by strackerjack on Jul 26, 2005 8:44:15 GMT -5
Thanks fandude,
I'll try the new switch I bought at Home Depot tonight and let you know how it goes....
jack
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2005 15:06:01 GMT -5
The replacement pullchain must be the same as the original. Do note that not all pullchains that appear the same (L-1-2-3, L-1-2) are the same. There are different contact arrangements.
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Post by strackerjack on Jul 27, 2005 15:57:25 GMT -5
I actually have three of the same fans in service in my house....
didn't realize they were anything special!
anyway the Home Depot L-1-2-3 switch didn't work, I'm sure it's wired correctly because I put the old switch back in and confirmed the wiring configuration...
so ... how do I find the same switch for this fan? are there "ceiling fan" junkyards somewhere? Is Tatung still making fans? can I JBWeld some new threads on the plastic collar???
thanks guys... I can take pictures of the fan but I'm a novice at posting them to the internet.
jack
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2005 16:55:50 GMT -5
anyway the Home Depot L-1-2-3 switch didn't work, I'm sure it's wired correctly because I put the old switch back in and confirmed the wiring configuration... Your old switch had the L-1-2-3 configuration, or the L-1-2, or other? Do you have a multi-tester or ohmmeter? You can email me the pictures if you like.
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Post by strackerjack on Jul 28, 2005 15:35:11 GMT -5
my old switch has the L-1-2-3 configuration....
yes I do have an ohmmeter/voltmeter (mostly used for troubleshooting electric in my Volvo)
I'll e-mail you the pic
thanks,
jack
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2005 13:18:48 GMT -5
my old switch has the L-1-2-3 configuration.... yes I do have an ohmmeter/voltmeter (mostly used for troubleshooting electric in my Volvo) I'll e-mail you the pic thanks, jack Ok, take the old switch. Check for continuity between each of the 4 wires on each different setting. Let me know what the results are.
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Post by strackerjack on Aug 7, 2005 12:20:24 GMT -5
Sorry for the delay - both my automobiles died at the same time and transportation became the priority over fan function...
but here are the continuity settings:
OLD Switch
OFF switch setting = continuitly between position 1 and position 2
pulled chain once to get to next position:
HI FAN SPEED switch setting = continuity between position 1 and position 2 continuity between position 1 and position 3 continuity between position 2 and position 3
pulled chain once to get to next position:
MED FAN SPEED switch setting = continuity between position 2 and position 3
pulled chain once to get to next position:
LO FAN SPEED switch setting = continuity between position 1 and position 3
thanks much for helping me here!
jack
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2005 19:28:40 GMT -5
What we need is the continuity between "L" and positions "1" "2" "3" in all positions.
Although, if the only thing wrong is that the collar has broke, I suggest super-gluing it back together.
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Post by strackerjack on Aug 9, 2005 22:59:45 GMT -5
Unfortunately I've long ago lost the plastic piece that broke off and its collar
but I'm gonna try to take the metal collar from the switch I bought and superglue it on to the 1/2 of a thread still on the old switch.
thanks for the suggestion
here's the L to 1,2,3 information:
OLD Switch
OFF switch setting = continuitly between position 1 and position 2 continuity between L and 1 continuity between L and 2
pulled chain once to get to next position:
HI FAN SPEED switch setting = continuity between position 1 and position 2 continuity between position 1 and position 3 continuity between position 2 and position 3 continuity between L and 1 continuity between L and 2 continuity between L and 3
pulled chain once to get to next position:
MED FAN SPEED switch setting = continuity between position 2 and position 3 continuity between L and 2 continuity between L and 3
pulled chain once to get to next position:
LO FAN SPEED switch setting = continuity between position 1 and position 3 continuity between L and 1 continuity between L and 3
it looks like the old switch and the new collar might be holding!
jack
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Post by strackerjack on Aug 9, 2005 23:35:18 GMT -5
the new collar busted off the old switch javascript:add(%22%20:P%22)
here's the wiring for the new L123 switch:
L not continuous with any position (I'll bet this is off) L continuous with position 1 L continuous with position 2 L continuous with position 3
completely different from the old one
thanks for sticking with me on this ... it looks like I need to find a switch that matches my old one.
jack
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2005 0:07:33 GMT -5
OK, so to rephrase, your old switch is like this:
OFF = L+1+2 HI = L+1+2+3 MED = L+2+3 LOW = L+1+3
That's a pretty odd switch configuration, especially because it has continuity between "L" and the other terminals in the off position.
In my mind I switch "L" and "3" and get
OFF = HI = L+1+2+3 MED = L+2+3 LOW = L+1+3
Still a really odd switch configuration.
When I have some time I will see if I have any spare switches like that.
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Post by strackerjack on Aug 10, 2005 22:39:28 GMT -5
The old switch and the new collar broke apart... looks like I'm back to square one
the new switch has continuity straight across as follows:
I bet this is off position - no continuity between L and any other contact Speed 1 - continuity between L and 1 Speed 2 - continuity between L and 2 Speed 3 - continuity between L and 3
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Post by strackerjack on Aug 10, 2005 22:48:23 GMT -5
Sorry I didn't see page 2 of this thread and on page 1 my last post didn't show up so I posted it again.
now that I see your reply on page 2 I will respond:
I think I may tear apart that old switch to make sure that I'm not jamming my Ohmmeter in too far and getting contact somewhere I shouldn't be.
please don't spend a lot of time looking for a switch for me... maybe there's some kind of way I can take the guts of the old switch and put it in the new switch's housing?
I'll check the Off position again, it does make more sense that there's no continuity when it's off.
thanks
jack
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2005 18:26:00 GMT -5
please don't spend a lot of time looking for a switch for me... maybe there's some kind of way I can take the guts of the old switch and put it in the new switch's housing? Good question. Try it!
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