Tatung CF-AM36 w/bad pull switch

[strackerjack]

The plastic/metal collar on the pull switch broke so I thought I'd replace it

new switch is a Cooper 2 circuit 3 speed canopy switch w/same ratings as fan

House wiring: white comes down out of box thru downrod and is common to light and fan, black wire goes to bundle of other wires which are tied to the coil wires of the fan motor.

this bundle then drops down the downrod to my switch wiring
2 of the wires from the bundle (yellow and grey) supply the light's black wire
others (red and brown) go to a black box (capacitor?) which supplied the old 4 wire switch with everything but the white (common with the light)

the new switch has only 3 wires (not 4 like the old) red brown and black for 1, 2, and L in that order.

When I try to wire it up all I get is one speed Medium

2 questions - is there a way to properly wire this new switch in?

is there anyplace I can get the original switch for this fan if it's the wrong one?

thanks

jack

[strackerjack]

Thanks fandude,

I'll try the new switch I bought at Home Depot tonight and let you know how it goes....

jack

[Deleted]

The replacement pullchain must be the same as the original. Do note that not all pullchains that appear the same (L-1-2-3, L-1-2) are the same. There are different contact arrangements.

[strackerjack]

I actually have three of the same fans in service in my house....

didn't realize they were anything special!

anyway the Home Depot L-1-2-3 switch didn't work, I'm sure it's wired correctly because I put the old switch back in and confirmed the wiring configuration...

so ... how do I find the same switch for this fan? are there "ceiling fan" junkyards somewhere? Is Tatung still making fans? can I JBWeld some new threads on the plastic collar???

thanks guys... I can take pictures of the fan but I'm a novice at posting them to the internet.

jack

[Deleted]

strackerjack said:

anyway the Home Depot L-1-2-3 switch didn't work, I'm sure it's wired correctly because I put the old switch back in and confirmed the wiring configuration...

Your old switch had the L-1-2-3 configuration, or the L-1-2, or other?

Do you have a multi-tester or ohmmeter?

You can email me the pictures if you like.

[strackerjack]

my old switch has the L-1-2-3 configuration....

yes I do have an ohmmeter/voltmeter (mostly used for troubleshooting electric in my Volvo)

I'll e-mail you the pic

thanks,

jack

[Deleted]

strackerjack said:

my old switch has the L-1-2-3 configuration....

yes I do have an ohmmeter/voltmeter (mostly used for troubleshooting electric in my Volvo)

I'll e-mail you the pic

thanks,

jack

Ok, take the old switch. Check for continuity between each of the 4 wires on each different setting. Let me know what the results are.

[strackerjack]

Sorry for the delay - both my automobiles died at the same time and transportation became the priority over fan function...

but here are the continuity settings:

OLD Switch

OFF switch setting =
continuitly between position 1 and position 2

pulled chain once to get to next position:

HI FAN SPEED switch setting =
continuity between position 1 and position 2
continuity between position 1 and position 3
continuity between position 2 and position 3

pulled chain once to get to next position:

MED FAN SPEED switch setting =
continuity between position 2 and position 3

pulled chain once to get to next position:

LO FAN SPEED switch setting =
continuity between position 1 and position 3


thanks much for helping me here!

jack

[Deleted]

What we need is the continuity between "L" and positions "1" "2" "3" in all positions.

Although, if the only thing wrong is that the collar has broke, I suggest super-gluing it back together.

[strackerjack]

Unfortunately I've long ago lost the plastic piece that broke off and its collar

but I'm gonna try to take the metal collar from the switch I bought and superglue it on to the 1/2 of a thread still on the old switch.

thanks for the suggestion


here's the L to 1,2,3 information:

OLD Switch

OFF switch setting =
continuitly between position 1 and position 2
continuity between L and 1
continuity between L and 2

pulled chain once to get to next position:

HI FAN SPEED switch setting =
continuity between position 1 and position 2
continuity between position 1 and position 3
continuity between position 2 and position 3
continuity between L and 1
continuity between L and 2
continuity between L and 3

pulled chain once to get to next position:

MED FAN SPEED switch setting =
continuity between position 2 and position 3
continuity between L and 2
continuity between L and 3

pulled chain once to get to next position:

LO FAN SPEED switch setting =
continuity between position 1 and position 3
continuity between L and 1
continuity between L and 3

it looks like the old switch and the new collar might be holding!

jack

[strackerjack]

the new collar busted off the old switch javascript:add(%22%20:P%22)

here's the wiring for the new L123 switch:

L not continuous with any position (I'll bet this is off)
L continuous with position 1
L continuous with position 2
L continuous with position 3

completely different from the old one

thanks for sticking with me on this ... it looks like I need to find a switch that matches my old one.

jack

[Deleted]

OK, so to rephrase, your old switch is like this:

OFF = L+1+2
HI = L+1+2+3
MED = L+2+3
LOW = L+1+3

That's a pretty odd switch configuration, especially because it has continuity between "L" and the other terminals in the off position.

In my mind I switch "L" and "3" and get

OFF =
HI = L+1+2+3
MED = L+2+3
LOW = L+1+3

Still a really odd switch configuration.

When I have some time I will see if I have any spare switches like that.

[strackerjack]

The old switch and the new collar broke apart... looks like I'm back to square one

the new switch has continuity straight across as follows:

I bet this is off position - no continuity between L and any other contact
Speed 1 - continuity between L and 1
Speed 2 - continuity between L and 2
Speed 3 - continuity between L and 3

[strackerjack]

Sorry I didn't see page 2 of this thread and on page 1 my last post didn't show up so I posted it again.

now that I see your reply on page 2 I will respond:

I think I may tear apart that old switch to make sure that I'm not jamming my Ohmmeter in too far and getting contact somewhere I shouldn't be.

please don't spend a lot of time looking for a switch for me... maybe there's some kind of way I can take the guts of the old switch and put it in the new switch's housing?

I'll check the Off position again, it does make more sense that there's no continuity when it's off.

thanks

jack

[Deleted]

strackerjack said:

please don't spend a lot of time looking for a switch for me... maybe there's some kind of way I can take the guts of the old switch and put it in the new switch's housing?

Good question. Try it!