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Post by Cullen D. on Jan 12, 2017 20:21:42 GMT -5
My brother has a Hampton Bay Sinclair in his room, controlled by a Honeywell remote/wall control combo. It was installed in 2015.
It has 3 75-watt equivalent LED bulbs in it.
Not too long after installing it I had to replace one of the bulbs. I don't know what was wrong with it- it became very dim and would continue to glow for a few seconds when turned off, even when there was no power going to it- I could unscrew the bulb and it would glow for a few seconds in my hand!
Anyway, just days after I replaced the bulb (which was a long time later because I'm lazy), the replacement bulb died completely. Tonight yet another bulb in a different socket has the same problem as the first bulb. What could be killing the bulbs?
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Post by Jonathan A. on Jan 13, 2017 0:28:30 GMT -5
Sure that LEDs are dimmable? And do remote have dimming function?
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Post by fancollector12 on Jan 13, 2017 2:25:24 GMT -5
What wattage are the bulbs themselves (not the equivalence rating of 75 watts, the actual rating) (not like they will be enough wattage to trigger the wattage limiter)? You could have a faulty light kit. In that case, I believe Home Depot sells that light kit online or else you can call Hampton Bay and order one. It shouldn't be more than $20.
You're going to want to make sure that the LED bulbs you choose are dimmable. And I would think the Honeywell remote kit would be compatible with LED bulbs, so there shouldn't be any problem there. I think that someone probably didn't buy dimmable LED bulbs (common mistake).
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Post by Cullen D. on Jan 13, 2017 21:23:39 GMT -5
They're not dimmable but I have the dimming function on the remote turned off.
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Post by fancollector12 on Jan 14, 2017 2:23:05 GMT -5
I'd say you need a new light kit.
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Post by Max C. on Jan 17, 2017 22:20:24 GMT -5
Here's the scoop about LED light bulbs, no BS. First of all, these days, most any reputable manufacturer provides a warranty period of two (plus) years. The word "reputable" is bold and italicized for a reason. Often times, it is tempting to source ultra-low-grade Chinese LEDs for the purposing of saving money. These may work, however are generally unreliable in the long-term and possibly even unsafe. The prolonged, dim "afterglow" you are experiencing is the result of a cheap and poorly-designed capacitive driver circuit. Needless to say, high quality bulbs (if not already installed) are worthwhile to consider. Second of all, higher-wattage equivalent LED bulbs produce a noteworthy amount of heat. As with any light bulb, excessive heat increases the possibility of premature failure. Especially if these bulbs do not entail any external heat sink or cooling fan (your brother's Hampton Bay Sinclair does not count unfortunately), it comes as no surprise that a heat-related failure could occur. Thirdly, have you removed the wattage limiter? This alone can eliminate a plethora of light-kit related problems with units produced in 2010 (circa 2008 for US residents?) and after. I hope this helps you and your brother, Max
I'd say you need a new light kit. Quite likely not. |
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Post by Cullen D. on Jan 18, 2017 0:11:46 GMT -5
I didn't see a wattage limiter in the switch housing, so it must be the heat from the bulbs. I used Sylvania LED bulbs.
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Post by Max C. on Jan 18, 2017 0:15:08 GMT -5
I didn't see a wattage limiter in the switch housing, so it must be the heat from the bulbs. I used Sylvania LED bulbs. Manufacturers are often clever when installing wattage limiters (the unit might be located within the light fitter itself). Sylvania usually makes decent LED bulbs these days. |
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Post by fancollector12 on Feb 2, 2017 0:57:51 GMT -5
True. All fans manufactured after 2005 I believe (may be off a few years) are REQUIRED to have a wattage limiter in order to legally be sold, so there IS one in there, as Max said, it's just cleverly hidden.  |
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Post by Cullen D. on Mar 5, 2017 15:15:20 GMT -5
So this issue is relevant again because my brother got some new expensive smart LED bulbs for his fan. They're working fine so far but I just remembered today that they won't last long because his fan kills LED bulbs. For a while he had ultra-bright CFLs which at far as I know used the same or more watts then the 75W equivalent Sylvania LED bulbs they replaced. They worked perfectly, so it may not be a heat or wattage issue issue.
What does a wattage limiter look like? I may open his fan up soon to search for one, but if that doesn't work or there's no limiter the whole fan will have to be replaced yet again because it must just be the light kit or fan itself.
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Post by Cullen D. on Mar 5, 2017 15:17:36 GMT -5
Here's the scoop about LED light bulbs, no BS. First of all, these days, most any reputable manufacturer provides a warranty period of two (plus) years. The word "reputable" is bold and italicized for a reason. Often times, it is tempting to source ultra-low-grade Chinese LEDs for the purposing of saving money. These may work, however are generally unreliable in the long-term and possibly even unsafe. The prolonged, dim "afterglow" you are experiencing is the result of a cheap and poorly-designed capacitive driver circuit. Needless to say, high quality bulbs (if not already installed) are worthwhile to consider. Second of all, higher-wattage equivalent LED bulbs produce a noteworthy amount of heat. As with any light bulb, excessive heat increases the possibility of premature failure. Especially if these bulbs do not entail any external heat sink or cooling fan (your brother's Hampton Bay Sinclair does not count unfortunately), it comes as no surprise that a heat-related failure could occur. Thirdly, have you removed the wattage limiter? This alone can eliminate a plethora of light-kit related problems with units produced in 2010 (circa 2008 for US residents?) and after. I hope this helps you and your brother, Max
I'd say you need a new light kit. Quite likely not. Also, just out of curiosity, why is it that 75w equivalent bulbs in my brother's fan get too hot and short out, but you recommended putting schoolhouse lights with 150W equivalent bulbs on the sunroom Originals? Wouldn't that create the same problem? |
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Post by Max C. on Mar 7, 2017 23:06:35 GMT -5
Also, just out of curiosity, why is it that 75w equivalent bulbs in my brother's fan get too hot and short out, but you recommended putting schoolhouse lights with 150W equivalent bulbs on the sunroom Originals? Wouldn't that create the same problem? 150-watt equivalent LEDs are expensive and rare. For such an incandescent replacement, CFL bulbs would be the most practical option, and would be less susceptible to heat-related failures. |
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Post by vikaspaul on Jun 20, 2017 6:07:53 GMT -5
I altogether don't like the concept of LED with in fan. the fan is for air circulation and LEDs has different purpose. The combination is just to increase the model base of manufacturers. They themselves know that it is not going to work.
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Post by Cullen D. on Jun 21, 2017 11:12:45 GMT -5
Well, since this thread was resurrected I might as well say the Hampton Bay Sinclair does NOT have a wattage limiter. I took the remote receiver out since my brother didn't use it anymore, and when I opened the switch housing to replace the speed pull chain, there was no wattage limiter in there. (I cut the pull chain to use the fan on the remote.) The one in my room is on the remote now and the LED bulbs in it work fine, so I have no idea what the problem was.
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Post by Jonathan A. on Jun 21, 2017 12:33:23 GMT -5
Well, since this thread was resurrected I might as well say the Hampton Bay Sinclair does NOT have a wattage limiter. I took the remote receiver out since my brother didn't use it anymore, and when I opened the switch housing to replace the speed pull chain, there was no wattage limiter in there. (I cut the pull chain to use the fan on the remote.) The one in my room is on the remote now and the LED bulbs in it work fine, so I have no idea what the problem was. Open the motor housing! |
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