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Post by John Shelley on Feb 14, 2009 15:50:36 GMT -5
I partially stripped the paint on the blender-fan blades using paint thinner and a brush to give them a wood grain apperence. John what is your day job? You are very skilled at this. Unfortunetly I am currently unemployed. I am currently taking classes to be a HVAC Installer and repairman. As for the skills It just seems to come naturaly for me.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2009 19:25:56 GMT -5
The HVAC thing fits.
I just sold something on eBay to York, PA!
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Post by John Shelley on Feb 20, 2009 22:25:33 GMT -5
The burnished brass blender fan is now completed. I had the shaft hollowed out. (things were finally slow enough at a local motor repair shop that they had time to drill out the shaft) I made a switch housing out of a mini paint can and added capacitors to make the fan 3 speed 10uf for low 15)uf for medium(actaltt 3 5uf caps in paralell). I also added a revese switch (yes you can reverse some blenderfans for k55 no pull chain models just hook the bronw/red motor wire to hot instead of the black one.) If emerson had made this fan the model # would have been CF352BB.
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Post by Andrew G. on Feb 20, 2009 22:27:45 GMT -5
It would have looked a lot better with an actual tapered blender switch housing.
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Post by Cole S. on Feb 21, 2009 0:22:41 GMT -5
It's interesting, the switch housing seems a bit long since the original tapered ones are so short.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2009 0:59:18 GMT -5
I like it better without, but as always, John did a great job.
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Post by John Shelley on Feb 21, 2009 19:45:50 GMT -5
I intalled the moss wf in my kitchen today. (formerly this fan was located there.) motor hung: Blades and housing attached: Complete fan: It would have looked a lot better with an actual tapered blender switch housing. I did not have a spare tapered switch housing and even if I did I don't think that the dual layer pull chain switch would have fit correctly. That is why I made my own. I like it better without, but as always, John did a great job. I agree about not haveing a switch housing I would have preferred just have a pullchain through the flywheel but I wanted to be able install it in locations that don't have a wall control and need a light.
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Post by Cole S. on Feb 21, 2009 20:43:24 GMT -5
I posted in the other thread, refer to there for my comment.
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Post by Jean Lemieux on Feb 22, 2009 2:29:47 GMT -5
Yeah that motor is much smaller than the one I have. Of course the lower canopy looks weird but still its a beautiful fan and MUCH better than the ugly Harbor Breeze with clear blades. The light kit is nice but way too big for the fan. Usually top mount fans requires a smaller light kit (even if the fan is 52'')or even better a single schoolhouse is the best choice for those. Does it runs well?
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Post by Cole S. on Feb 22, 2009 12:31:48 GMT -5
I think he needs one of them flat schoolhouse globes like I've got for my WF. Those kind of globes look perfect on the FW Series and Emperors.
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Post by Troy on Feb 22, 2009 15:50:40 GMT -5
like this one it goes on an smc emperor.
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Post by Cole S. on Feb 22, 2009 15:54:58 GMT -5
Yeah, just like that. That would really complete the WF, even if they look good w/o a light.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2009 3:02:43 GMT -5
Why did the blender need a double layer pullchain? AND, why do you install the Moss one piee at a time like that?
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Post by John Shelley on Feb 23, 2009 11:58:23 GMT -5
Chaged the Light on the moss form loop arm to straight arm and changed the bulb for 60w in the arms and 100w in the center (which is 25w above the open shade rating of the center) to 25w ge reveals in all sockets. Why did the blender need a double layer pullchain? because if I hade used a single layer pull chain I would have needed to us a 10uf capacitor for low and seperate 15uf capacitor for medium instead of using the same 10uf capacitor on both medium and low and just adding a 5uf capacitor on medium. why do you install the Moss one piee at a time like that? Just to show that the motor was maked by tat. and I needed to straighten the motor housing mounting plate and blade brackets (which is easier to do with the motor housing removed)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2009 20:49:31 GMT -5
I'm actually not sure it's made by TAT. I've been wondering this for a while. Adam has a lot of information about the factories Moss used.
You could use a single layer pull but it would need to be 1, 2+3, 3, I think. Hell I'm confused.
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