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Post by vinvin on Jul 20, 2015 15:50:37 GMT -5
I have a Casablanca Zephyr purchased and installed in February of 1984. It’s been in use until the board went up in smoke this month. Can this be rewired with just a three speed and reversing switching plus a capacitor, no light switch?
Fan Man Lighting has a kit for this at a cost of $60. I see a couple of problems with this kit. 1. It has a light switch (not needed) 2. It has a 10 pin connection. The three speed switch uses a 4 pin connector, the reversing switch uses a three pin, and the fan has two 3 pin connectors for a total of 13 pins.
Has anyone tried to do their own wiring for this fan? If I could get a wiring schematic with what size capacitor to use. I can do the wiring.
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Post by Obi-Wan Canopy on Jul 20, 2015 15:52:38 GMT -5
Three wires come out of the motor, essentially two hots and a neutral. Depending on which direction you want the motor to go, you connect 120v across one of the hots and the neutral. The 10uf capacitor connects across the two hots.
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Post by Max C. on Jul 20, 2015 17:06:10 GMT -5
As Dan (Obi-Wan) said, you can easily rewire the fan yourself. If you wanted it to be reversible though, you would need to add a three-way switch which would connect to the fan's power source and the motor's two hot leads.
I hope this helps,
Max
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Post by vinvin on Jul 20, 2015 18:07:04 GMT -5
There are 8 wires that come through the center shaft. Two (blue & white) are for the light the other six go to two separate connectors (black, gray and pink to one connector and blue, green and yellow to the other). That’s why a wiring schematic would be helpful.
I have the original three wire reversing switch that I plan to use.
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Post by Obi-Wan Canopy on Jul 21, 2015 11:12:52 GMT -5
I usually do the wiring inside the housing. Are you not counting the power wires from the ceiling?
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Post by vinvin on Jul 21, 2015 14:31:25 GMT -5
There are a total of 8 wires coming out the bottom and 3 going into the top canopy. After further inspection and removal of the top cover to the fan I found out that the connector with the blue, green and yellow wires go to a sensor on a heatsink attached to the motor. That leaves me with the black/power, gray and pink wires are for the motor along with the white/neutral.
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Post by Obi-Wan Canopy on Jul 21, 2015 16:27:56 GMT -5
Neutral is connected at the motor. The two hots are the gray and pink (normally brown and red). Wire the 10uf capacitor and reverse switch across them, then connect hot from the supply to the center of the reverse switch.
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Post by vinvin on Jul 22, 2015 14:56:05 GMT -5
If I under the wiring correctly, the brown wire from the motor gets connected to one end of the capacitor and one end of the reversing switch. The red wire from the motor gets connect to the other end of both. Now on the three way switch #3 gets connected to the center of the revering switch, #2 is connected to the medium speed on a three wire capacitor, #1 is connected to the low speed of the capacitor and the L is connected to the hot/black wire and the single wire side of the switch capacitor.
I still have one question. What is the preferred or good uf ratings for a 3 wire switch capacitor?
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Post by fixitmike on Jul 25, 2015 17:19:40 GMT -5
Vinvin, if you still have your old board, you may be able to repair it. Does the board have a large yellow capacitor on it, along with about 8 other parts? If so, it's like mine, and I got my fan working again. With AC power off, pop the little board out of the housing (there are 4 snap-in mounting posts), and unplug the nylon wire connectors from the board (I think there are 5 or 6 of them -- you may need a screwdriver to pop them up). On my board there was a burned resistor next to the big yellow capacitor (should be 39 ohms, 1/4 watt), and some melted solder around a couple of the connector posts. In addition, my variable-speed control (5K 5w wire-wound) was internally damaged (wire was shreaded), which may have been the original cause of the problem. Anyway, I replaced the 39 ohm resistor, re-soldered the damaged pins, cleaned up the board, and put everything back together again. I will look for a replacement speed control, but in the meantime I removed the two red wires from the control, stripped them back a little, and twisted the bare ends together (same as setting the control to 0 ohms, or max speed). Now the fan runs at max speed, but I can control that with the dimmer-switch I use to run the lights. Hope that gets your fan spinning again.
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Post by vinvin on Jul 26, 2015 12:53:16 GMT -5
fixitmike
Thank you for your help, but the board is beyond repair. The capacitor or a resistor next to it burnt a hole through the board and some of the printed circuits.
I hope someone verifies if my wiring idea mention above is correct?
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