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Post by levivien on Sept 11, 2014 20:28:10 GMT -5
 I have an old Hunter 25596 which stopped running on low speed and was not running smooth on other two speeds. It would spin fast as on high then start to slow. Wall light switch shorted out twice. Suspected capacitor and replaced with the pictured capacitor as recommended by previous post. Original capacitor had no identifying numbers and had one black wire and one white wire. Fan had three speeds and light kit. Also replaced light switch. Have not found replacement directional switch so not replaced. Fan now starts slow and only spins at one speed on two levels and speed is not very fast. Put original capacitor back and fans performs exactly the same as with the above capacitor. No longer suspect capacitor. Need help. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2014 21:34:54 GMT -5
What kind of wall switch is it?
The directional switches are generic, but usually if they are the problem, you can get it to work if you push and wiggle the switch enough.
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Post by levivien on Sept 12, 2014 7:12:08 GMT -5
Wall switch is regular light switch. I've added a picture of the directional switch. Six wires special colors. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2014 11:34:51 GMT -5
What do you mean "wall switch shorted out twice"? Something failing in the fan should not cause a normal on/off wall switch to fail and is indicative of a larger electrical problem. Unless it's coincidental.
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chip
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Post by chip on Sept 12, 2014 23:29:38 GMT -5
The reversing switch is a double pole, double throw (DPDT)switch with internal crossover connections. You can test it by using a continuity meter (ohmmeter)using this diagram.
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Post by levivien on Sept 13, 2014 11:07:48 GMT -5
I agree and believe the wall switch issue is not fan related. Although I am not an electrician, using an ohm meter, I get needle movement red to red and white to white regardless of switch Up or Down. I assume that is good. In the Up position, I get movement red to brown and white to blue. Down is the opposite, white to brown and red to blue. I assume that also to be good. Re installed this switch and the speed switch. Directional switch in UP position does start and pushes air down, switch in DN position starts and pulls air up. Both positions appear to spin at medium speed only. No slow and no fast. What's next?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 13, 2014 12:58:31 GMT -5
Most likely, the capacitor was the problem, and when you replaced it, you miswired it, or something came loose.
Less likely, the windings are damaged.
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Post by levivien on Sept 13, 2014 15:07:01 GMT -5
Do you know correct specs for the capacitor? Hunter 25596. A previous post gave me 7.5 uf. For 3 speeds, shouldn't it have three uf's? If not, what makes it run 3 different speeds?
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chip
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Post by chip on Sept 14, 2014 0:00:30 GMT -5
The next thing you need to do is look at the speed control switch. Do you have the correct switch installed and is it wired correctly (L=Black, 1=Red, 2=Yellow and 3=Gray. If so, again use your ohmmeter and check to see if you have continuity between the following switch positions:
| SPEED | CONNECTIONS | | OFF | NO CONNECTIONS | | HIGH | L - 1 | | MEDIUM | L - 2 | | LOW | L - 3 |
You should be using either a Well Tech P/N E116997, or a Zing Ear, LTD p/n 268S1. Many aftermarket switches purchased from Home Depot or Lowes look the same but internal function connections are not correct. If the correct connection are not being made when the switch is cycled through the positions, you most likely need a new switch. (see photo)
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NOTE: This post has been edited to reflect corrected information.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2014 0:54:31 GMT -5
I believe at one point it was working with the existing pullchain, so I'm assuming it wasnt replaced. I have NEVER seen a pullchain fail besides the chain actually being pulled out.
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Post by JW on Sept 14, 2014 11:24:33 GMT -5
If the 25596 is an Original, than shouldn't the correct pull chain be off/L+1/L+2/L+3? The one chip mentioned is usually used for fans with the multiple value capacitor(s).
I pulled down an Original from a restaurant haul once that only rotated at about 110 RPM (halfway between low and medium for the period during which it was produced) regardless of what speed setting it was on. Changing the capacitor did nothing. Probably had something to do with the windings.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2014 11:33:23 GMT -5
All of the Originals I have worked on have been L-1-2-3 as well. Hicks would know more.
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chip
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Post by chip on Sept 14, 2014 15:53:22 GMT -5
I stand corrected. Although Hunter insists that the Zing Ear ZE268S6 is an exact replacement for the Well Tec E116997, this seems NOT to be the case. I electrically tested an E116997 switch that was removed from a working 2001 Hunter Original (23856) and sure enough I found that it's function was L-1, L-2. L-3. Not satisfied with the electrical testing, I decided to physically examine the switch to determine the actual mechanical set up of the switch (see photo). After pulling the switch apart and examining the rotor assembly, you can see that it is in the L-3 position and there is no physical way that contacts 2 and 3 would ever be connected to each other.
Sorry for my error, but it seems that I erroneously relied on information furnished by Hunter tech support as well as Ken's Electronics (www.kenselectronics.com/lists/switches.htm). Next time I'll do my own research. Live and learn.
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I do think that levivien should test the switch he currently has installed in his fan to be sure it is correct before moving on to other causes of his problem. |
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Post by levivien on Sept 15, 2014 19:20:02 GMT -5
Switch has tested correctly as L-1, L-2, L-3. I still need the correct specs for the capacitor. Is it just a 7.5 uf only or something with more than one uf rating? The old one is pictured below. Attachment Deleted Attachment Deleted |
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Post by vanhalen5150 on Sept 15, 2014 19:45:10 GMT -5
7.5 MFD is correct. The Energy star late model originals, DO use a L+1 L+2+3 L+3, however the USA made fans use an L+1 L+2 L+3. The info that Hunter gave is correct for the new fans. They are idiots now and no one seems to know anything about anything older than 6 months old. I wouldn't call myself an expert, but I do have three Service manuals. You can see two of them at the bottom of this picture Chances are, you had an arcing fault within the taps connections 180 degrees across from the molex plug and where the capacitor is located. It arced until it "welded" all three speeds together. To confirm this, ohm out the red, yellow and gray. If I am right all three will ohm the same. It is repairable, but it's a very delicate task as the wires are 28 gauge and very fragile. plus.google.com/photos?hl=en_US&pid=6059021939097128386&oid=106491230024035079285 |
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